A low point.. and another relocation

Chile, thursday 19th May and disaster strikes - while we are innocently enjoying the nightlife in downtown Santiago, a bounder of indeterminate nationality is nicking Laur´s backpack out of our supposedly secure, locked hostel. By bye laptop, credit cards, camera leads, passport, cash and, most gallingly, a box of essential oils which were making our sometimes manky budget hostel beds smell tolerable.

We tried to put it all out of our minds with a short overnight trek to the amazing, UNESCO-rated port city of Valparaiso, some 150kms from Santiago. When we arrived, we´d been walking for a short time when our throats and eyes started to burn. We´d been warned by friends the night before (the lovely Peter and Tanya Pope and a Chilean friend) that there was some heavy, demonstration-type of stuff going down in Valpo that weekend; it is the seat of government and a target for street protests. Basically, the police had spent the day tear-gassing local teenagers, and we were still feeling the fall-out the next day!

Back in Santiago, we said our goodbyes to the city and tried to get over the feeling of being violated/losing our trust, as we had been done over by a very professional thief taking advantage of the easy-going environment of the traveller "community". We flew to Quito in Ecuador the next afternoon, on what turned out to be a 7-hour flight (I had mentally prepared myself for 3 hours), and arrived tired and spaced out at our hostel in the hectic Mariscal area of downtown Quito, sharing a taxi with a young american medical student.

Main square of Quito in the centro historico

Tumbling bouganvilleas in our side trip to Banyos

The next day we checked into another hostel, and started to repeat the process of finding a longer-term stay and a spanish school. Quito, like La Paz, is in an incredible location, with towering green Andean mountains to one side, and is huge colonial historical centre, where we wandered into the Mercado Central, dodging the frantic buses that hurtle down the middle of main roads oblivious to wandering school-children. Apart from another nasty shock as a delayed bank statement showed that our stolen debit card was used to take money from our account the day that Laur´s bag was stolen, it´s been a sunny and fascinating stay in Quito so far and we are looking forward to possibly settling in here for a while.

A museum in Banyos

Interior of the Compania de Jesus church in Quito

Paradise regained

After bussing through the somewhat less-than-inspiring desert in Chile's north - or maybe I am being unfair comparing the north of Chile to the south of Bolivia - we came to the pleasant port town of La Serena, which largely lived up to its name. We spent a couple of relaxed days in the town or on its beach nearby, and where we saw Chilean political protest in action - about a hundred students and families protesting about some environmental outrage or other. The next day we ventured out on a boat to see the Humbolt penguin reserve; no luck spotting dolphins or whales but we did see an otter having lunch, which was great.

Flee!

Humbolt penguins doing their thing

Sea otter almuerzo

Having exhausted the possibilities in La Serena we ran the gamut of colectivo drivers trying to turn a profit from some tourists on a slow day, and sped off through Vicuna, later to arrive in a veritable oasis, the fantastic Elqui Valley a few hundred miles north of Santiago. It's a geographic anomoly, with towering desert mountains on either side of a lush, permanently watered valley covered in pisco and malbec vineyards. We opted for the most remote village in the region to stay, and were so glad we did that we extended our stay at the wonderful Tresora de Elqui hotel by another two nights.

horsemen in the Elqui Valley

long view of Elqui Valley

the moon through a mamalluca telescope

The lifestyle here is more reminiscent of Italy, Spain or France - days involve lounging by the pool in the fierce sun, reading in Castellano, cycling to artisanal villages and pisco vineyards, and continuing our remote job search for Ecuador. At night we wander about town or visit the terrific Mamalluca Observatory - the biggest telescope in the world, through which I actually saw Saturn with my own eyes! Our companions continue to be a strange melange of europeans: german families, posh english gappers, tourists from other parts of Chile, and the pace of life is relaxed. It will be a struggle to pull ourselves away from this little idyll for the trip to Santiago, but all good things must come to an end...

Enjoying some local vino collapso after a long ride

A Chile reception...

Haha, sorry I couldn't resist. We've finally arrived in Chile, showered and checked into a fab little hostal in the desert town of San Pedro, near the border with both Bolivia and Argentina. We've had an amazing couple of days tripping round the psychedelic landscapes of the south-west of Bolivia; seen the world's largest salt flat which was covered in water, and which produced optical illusions such as cars and mountains floating hundreds of metres off the ground.

the train cemetery outside Uyuni

Laur playing in the salt flats

flamingos grazing in the amazing lake colorado

We've seen bright red lakes and martian landscapes of red soil and towering multi-coloured mountains, flocks of pink flamingos and andean foxes, and had a freezing, eerie early-morning start today where we visited huge craters spewing sulfur fumes, bubbling rock and steam into the air. The circuit is dominated by europeans with the odd Aussie thrown in, so we've been discussing european politics and dredging up our schoolboy/girl french and german - we're thinking once we've conquered spanish these are next on the list!

the stone tree in the surreal uyuni desert

relaxing in the hot springs

San Pedro is small, welcoming and very gringo-centred, much more so than anywhere we have been in Bolivia and Peru, so we are going to recuperate here for a few days before we head south to Santiago. More pics to come in future updates...

Leaving La Paz...

After 3 months of intense study and relative luxury in our penthouse suite in Sopocachi, we're finally hitting the road. We've had a fun farewell week, playing Wallyball and hitting the clubs in La Paz, but it's time to stuff everything into our suitcases and head for the (apparently amazing) Uyuni Salt Flats which border Bolivia and Chile. Paid work in South America continues to prove elusive, but there have been hopeful signs recently, and certainly our spanish is improving out of sight - que bueno!

dancers at the Oruro Carnival

Cholita wrestling!

Balcony view of the Yungas in Coroico

We've managed to make some friends here too, and had some valuable english/spanish conversation swaps with a range of people, been to jazz bars, house parties and exhibition openings, visited museums, cholita wrestling and folklorica penas, mini-breaked in tropical resorts in the Yungas and the Inca heartland - the Isla del Sol where the sun was apparently born, hiked in the mountains and all around the vertical streets of La Paz, seen Bolivia's biggest street carnival, made offerings to the earth god Pachamama, celebrated the day Bolivia lost the sea in a war with Chile, watched KKK-resembling easter processions and heard distant dynamite explosions as half the workforce of Bolivia marched out in protest at their low salaries.

Semana Santa procession

A car dressed up for Palm Sunday

However, the nights are starting to get nippy up on the altiplano, and we are keen to get some beach time before we fly on to Ecuador for the next major stage of our trip. We'll be off-line for a while in the Salar but back in touch when we get to Chile - stay tuned!

Laur´s favourite lagoon in Bolivia

A giant turtle in the southwest desert in Bolivia

Life in La Paz - 1 Mar 2011

It´s been a while since we have posted (2 weeks to be exact) and we are settling in comfortably into life in La Paz. We are living with a lovely family in Sopacachi, the swankiest part of town - our neighbours are embassies, language schools, western-style cinemas and galleries, although we´re only ever a few minutes away from poverty and pollution. San Pedro prison is about 10 minutes walk, almost close enough to hear the riots that have been happening there recently.

Our routine is to do classes during weekdays, studying at night and fitting in cultural stuff - concerts, films (en espagnole naturalamente) and museums. This weekend we are off to the carnaval in Oruro, the biggest cultural event/fiesta of the year for Bolivia. We´ve been quite lucky with our timing, as we also experienced Peru´s biggest festival last month purely by chance (Candeleria).

Our host family are a grandmother (Bertha), mother (Pamela - who runs the house) and daughter (Pamelita - "little Pamela") who are very chatty and welcoming. We have superb views of La Paz and the surrounding crater/mountains, and a good kitchen so we can recover from the inevitable problems we have with local food and water (not having built up resistance to bugs). We haven´t met many other gringos yet, but have our first house-party to go to soon, so we hope will be able to make a bit of a network of acquaintances.

Classes are going really well, and we are improving slowly but surely - especially being able to speak to the family when at home, and to people when out in the street. It´s a pleasant life and although we miss our friends and family, we feel quite at home here.

Settling into La Paz - 13th Feb 2011

Today we continued to get to know our new home, dealing with the effects of altitude (shallow breathing, high heart rate and bizarrely in my case, swollen lips) and researching accommodation and language school options. We visited a gigantic Sunday market, where stall after stall featured miniatures of everything you could imagine, from cars and money to shops, clothing, electrical goods etc. These were all made so that people could take them to be prayed over, in the hope that they would acquire them in the coming year, and it was quite a little industry in Bolivia.

A large part of the afternoon was spent sitting in a cafe with wi-fi trying to work out what our options would be, something which we are still not sure of exactly. In the evening we decided to try out La Paz’s art-house cinema, watching a documentary about SA politics over the past decade or so which was absolutely fascinating (although a challenge to our Spanish skills in parts). On the walk home we discovered the Japanese cultural centre, which had an excellent restaurant in it – two more reasons to be deeply enamoured of La Paz.

Copacabana to our new home - La Paz! - 12th Feb 2011

A pleasant morning lying on the beach waiting for our boat back to Copa this morning, and we had time to check out the Inca steps leading up to where we had stayed the previous evening. Our money was running out, and fuelled only by chips and salsa and an apple, my tummy was grumbling all morning and I was started to grumble myself. Once back on the mainland, Laura did a market run and soon we were happily eating cheese rolls and on the bus again to La Paz, our final destination for the time being.

me being unhappy with dinner last night

more reed boats in the Isla del Sol port

The bus trip across the straights was broken up by a short ferry crossing where we had to disembark and our bus went on its own ferry across the water while we went onto a passenger one, a very efficient operation as tens of buses would pass through this area each hour. We seem to be travelling with young germans now who are a suitably enthusiastic peer group, and also running into other gringos from different stages of the same circuit, in that way that you do.

Our bus catching the ferry across the straights

My holy footwear

The rest of the bus trip seemed to go quite slowly as the landscape changed around us – Bolivian mountains being more rounded with funny-shaped peaks, and the ever-present snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real mountain range in the distance, which we had admired from afar on Isla del Sol.

the Cordillera Real

And what an amazing sight greeted us when we finally rounded the corner from El Alto – the indigenous town above La Paz itself – and saw the dramatic location of the city. It is set into a huge crater, with green land on one side and houses steeply built into the rim of the crater on the other side spilling down into the main centre. It was huge and impossible and one of the most awesome city views I have ever seen – up there with Tokyo at night from on high, or London from the air.

We used our last Bolivianos getting a cab to a place we thought we had booked by email (it turned out the message had somehow not gotten through – the guy gave us a very suspicious explanation as to why this was), and experienced the madness and bustle of La Paz on a Saturday night, we seem to be really good at turning up in new places at their busiest times. There were people, and soldiers, everywhere, all happening on streets that banked sharply upwards and downwards in each direction, lined with a heady mix of colonial buildings, new and crumbling modern buildings and dotted throughout with distinctly Bolivian religious and public buildings.

Booking in a the Austria Hotel, a colonial stalwart of the backpacker scene, we were perfectly located in the centre, a block from the presidential palace and cathedral, and wandered out to experience La Paz without our luggage. A pleasingly cheap and high-quality dinner later and we were ready for bed, determined to start our research into language schools and homestays in the morning.